Exploring the Magic of Nara Park


leaves and straw attatched to sacred border rope on new year's eve

Nara Park in Japan is one of the few places on Earth I could call magical, but then again I've never been to Disneyland. I have, however, stayed a month in southern France and trekked through the beautiful Pyrenees Mountains with a French guide named Guy (pronounced 'Ghee'). 

I then traveled north through Paris and onward to Belgium, visiting Bruges, Antwerp, and Ghent. Continuing my journey north, I reached my final destination in the Netherlands, Amsterdam. I also lived in South Korea for two years and embarked on a bicycle journey from Seoul to Busan, covering about 600 kilometers in seven days.

From my limited experience, I must say that Nara Park tops my list as one of my favorite places on Earth. The unfortunate thing is that if you read most English-published travel guides, they often overlook Nara or include it merely as a day trip. The focus tends to be on Kyoto and Tokyo. However, I recommend taking a little more time to explore what Nara has to offer. Take a walk through Nara Park, and you might just find yourself lost in magically picturesque places.

autumn sunset at Todai-ji Nigatsudo

stairs exiting Todai-ji Nigatsudo

picturesque fall foilage 

stone lanterns

whimsical trail through a little grove of trees

One of the many things that makes Nara Park special to me is the deer that roam freely throughout it. These deer walk along the streets lined with stores, bow for treats, stop at crosswalks, and wait for green lights before crossing the street. These wild deer almost feel domesticated, and I believe you can attribute that to the influence of Buddhism. In the past, killing animals and eating meat was prohibited, and through the course of over a thousand years, deer and humans have come to live in peaceful coexistence in this area.

deer begging a shop owner for some food

I grew up in a hunting community that took pride in stuffing and mounting the deer they shot and killed with a bow or rifle and displayed them on their walls as trophies. So, having wild deer eat acorns from the palm of my hand feels very much like a place where 'the lion shall lie down with the lamb.' 

feeding deer acorns on Wakakusa Mountain

As a side note, during one of my visits to Nara Park, an old man kindly gave me and a young boy beside me acorns he had collected to feed the deer. I found this fascinating because, typically, you have to purchase snacks from vendors to feed the deer. But I think the deer actually prefer the acorns. 

After this chance encounter, I began to collect acorns in nearby parks. I then boiled and froze them and kept a supply in my freezer. This way, I could always bring a ziplock bag full of acorns with me to Nara Park to share with the deer. In the spirit of continuing this act of kindness, I also gave handfuls of acorns to other young children during my visits to Nara Park so that they, too, could experience the joy of feeding the deer.

The Todai-ji temple that houses the Great Buddha

Among the deer in Nara Park, you'll also find Todaiji Temple, which houses one of the largest statues of Buddha in the world. This temple is a registered World Heritage site and is a significant draw for Nara Park's many visitors. To reach the Great Buddha, you'll first pass through the grand southern gates, an impressive structure in itself. As you move through the gate, you'll encounter two guardian statues on your left and right. They are there to protect the temple from evil spirits and negative influences.

guardian statue on the path towards Todaiji

If you have the chance to make a pilgrimage to see the Great Buddha at night, it's one of the most awe-inspiring and breathtaking experiences I've had. The unfortunate thing is that I have not been lucky to capture the sight on camera that does the experience any justice. These night time visits can only be experienced once a year during Nara's lantern festival held in early August.

a field of lit candles at the Lantern festival in Nara Park

interesting arrangement of candles during the Lantern Festival

another interesting arrangement of candles during the Lantern Festival

Nara's Lantern Festival offers a unique opportunity to see the park illuminated by thousands of candles and lanterns. Experiencing the park at night is a once-a-year event. The brevity and fleeting nature of this experience adds another layer of charm.

And, of course, it wouldn't be a true festival without food stands lining the roads. The bright lights from the food stalls at night create a lively, festive atmosphere.

food stall serving skewered meats

food stall serving french fries

walking along the road where the food stands are located

If eating while standing or sitting on a bench doesn't appeal to you and you'd prefer to dine in a proper restaurant to savor your food, you can easily find 'はり新' not far from the park. It's just a 13-minute walk on foot from Kintetsu Nara Station. Their menu features seasonal Japanese dishes, and while there's typically only one option available without a reservation, I don't see this as an issue. I appreciate the simplicity of their menu, which ensures that what they've prepared is carefully thought out and well-crafted.

tea brought before the meal at はり新

はり新's autumn lunch set

I believe that even if you simply wander around without a specific plan, you can discover some wonderful little shops of your own, like this charming sweet shop with ceramic deer decorations pictured below. I haven't fully explored this beautiful park myself, and I'm confident that by leisurely strolling through it, you'll uncover some hidden gems of your own.

two ceramic deer used as decoration in a sweet shop near Nara Park

Nara Park

Todai-ji Nigatsudo


Wakakusa Mountain

はり新

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