Osaka Local Neighborhood: Exploring Domyoji

September 23, 2023

Osaka Local Neighborhood: Exploring Domyoji

Domyoji is a tranquil and unpretentious suburb, situated just a 20-minute train ride from Abenobashi station on the Kintetsu Minami line. When you explore this neighborhood, you'll find it to be peaceful, except during the morning and evening rush hours when people are commuting to work or waiting at the bus stop. However, outside of these peak hours, the streets are quiet. Getting to Domoji Station from Tennoji is easy. Simply take a local express train on the Minami Kintetsu Line from Abenobashi Station, heading towards Furuichi. During the 20-minute train journey, you have an excellent opportunity to savor the sights passing by outside the train windows.

taken from within the Minami Kintetsu train line

There aren't many dining options, but you can find essentials, like the takoyaki stand near the station (pictured below), which only opens in the evenings. It goes by the name 笑, which translates to "smile" or " laughter " in English. While I believe it's a friendly place, I haven't had the chance to confirm if it lives up to its name. Additionally, there's a kushikatsu eatery, called, 和典, that's a local staple. It has a connection to the kushikatsu stand featured on the Japanese TV drama Solitary Gourmet. There's also a small mom-and-pop cafe named Cherry that's known for its curry. I've been wanting to try it, but unfortunately, my stomach doesn't react well to curry.

view of a passerby in front of the takoyaki and teppanyaki place called "Smile"

Domyoji station is conveniently close to the Ishikawa river, where you'll find a well-known local landmark,the Tamatechou Bridge. This picturesque bridge was once painted red but has faded over time to a charming shade of orange. It's exclusively for pedestrians and cyclists and offers a delightful experience for those who venture across it. Crossing this bridge technically takes you out of Domyoji, which belongs to Fujiidera City, and into the Tamatechou neighborhood, a part of Kashiwara City. However, the distance is short, and it all feels interconnected.

Tamatechou Bridge

I should also mention that there's a dedicated bike path along the Ishikawa riverbanks, providing breathtaking views. If you head south, you'll have around 13 kilometers of scenic biking that leads to Tondabayashi City. Domyoji sits at the junction of the Ishikawa and Yamatogawa rivers. While there's also a path along the Yamatogawa River, I haven't explored it extensively.

winter grass next to the Ishikawa river during the New Year

The Ishikawa river is remarkably clean, with children often playing in its waters during the summer, catching fish or bugs with nets. Evenings bring the sight of people launching fireworks along the banks, and during the day, you can witness kites soaring in the sky during holidays.

the main shopping street near Domyoji Station

Domoyoji is home to a diverse population, with Vietnamese immigrants using the fields near the river for soccer matches every Saturday. Occasionally, you can find them under the bridge, enjoying karaoke and BBQ. Unfortunately, the city recently banned BBQs, so these lively scenes are no longer visible. While informal gatherings under the bridge may no longer be prevalent, the Vietnamese community in Domyoji has established a presence along the main shopping street with three establishments: two restaurants and one grocery store. If you observe closely, you can spot a Vietnamese flag in the picture of the main shopping street above.

Despite its overall quietness, this neighborhood comes alive during the New Year Holidays, approximately five days a year. During this time, food stands line the streets and surround the Domyoji Tenmangu temple and shrine. The festival transforms the area into a bustling hub of excitement, akin to a city center. The New Year Holidays are a local delight, attracting visitors from neighboring areas.

in front of the gates to the Domyoji Tenmangu Shrine during the New Year

a food stand during the New Year at Domyoji Tenmangu Shrine

My wife, who grew up here, has been attending since childhood. While her father has reservations about religion and Shinto's past associations with the emperor and wartime atrocities, not participating in this festival would be like skipping Christmas. I have my own reservations about Christianity, but taking away Christmas would be like needlessly depriving life of a little fun. I simply want to savor the delicacies offered by the food stands, such as the 肉巻棒 (meat wrapped stick) pictured above, toss a few coins to the gods, and wish for a great year ahead. Perhaps I'll also purchase a fortune from the shrine and have a laugh at the predictions for the next year.